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When compiling a roll of London’s finest eateries, one might expect familiar high-end establishments. Yet, situated high among these food titans is a modest salonu found in a outlying part of northern London.

A Shocking Recognition

This little Turkish eatery, concentrating in the specialties of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been crowned the 4th best restaurant in the city by a influential gastronomic guide. This accolade has made the proprietors completely shocked.

“I am completely astonished,” says a family member, alluding to his family’s dedication that led to their humble restaurant securing such a lofty ranking on a notable 99-strong list.

A Charm of Simplicity

This little venue, which used to be a simple cafe before its transformation into a sought-after destination, has retained much of its former feel. It accommodates just over 20 people and, beyond the impressive live cooking performance, the interior remains largely unchanged. “It’s a tiny and intimate space,” comments the owner.

A Signature Creation: Tantuni

Ultimately, it’s all about the fare, and this eatery more than excels. The eatery’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated pleasure. Choice of meat—either lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to preserve a moist, juicy quality.

The meat is then added into a massive pan with flavours and oil, which are mixed in gradually. Once the meaty mixture heats through, handmade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is slapped on top to soak in all the flavours. Thinly sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley go inside before the savoury meat is rolled neatly inside.

It is typically enjoyed with a squeeze of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The final product is a strong burst of flavour, with soft hints of sumac, punchy onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil bringing it all in harmony.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is cut up and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. The leading food critic called this dish “a part of London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

For a sweet finish, the restaurant’s künefe goes down a delight. It is soaked in lighter syrup than found elsewhere, resulting in it a deeper, nuttier and more balanced profile.

Rising Above the Titans

Interestingly, this modest restaurant has ranked above several celebrated three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself just behind the peak of the list, trailing other high-profile dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave this place satisfied for below £25, equivalent meals at top-tier establishments can run into many times that price.

A Creed of Warmth

The restaurant is also among several Turkish restaurants included and is situated well outside the city’s central zones. “It’s not about luxury. London is an expensive city. There is an assumption that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the best service and top food but I do not believe in that,” explains the owner.

“In my view what is paramount is hospitality, kindness and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

This view is echoed by the list’s editor, who suggested that if he were in a position of power, he would “make it mandatory to have every chef in London train at this restaurant as a masterclass, to show them the traps of overthinking, and to show what is possible if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their absolute best”.

A Journey of Perseverance

In contrast to many chefs running kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the mastermind behind the food didn’t train at Michelin-starred restaurants. “I feel really happy of our restaurant and our mum,” adds her son.

A lot of restaurants require years to find their footing, but this one first opened its doors seven years ago. Its acclaim is owing to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of work.

“My mum would be really tired. She would source produce in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. Each item is handmade; she would manage all of this. She is a single mother and she had a life outside work but her friends would support her to encourage her. She had children and a house to manage as well. All of these duties forged her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he reflects.

An Achievement for the Community

This restaurant’s recognition is set to have meaning beyond its own premises. “I believe numerous people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” notes the owner, highlighting the greater meaning of this culinary achievement.